A Raw Look at Caracas' Central Park

in voilk •  2 months ago

    They say art immitates life. Sometimes the opposite is also true.

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    In his novella, The Last Day of a Condemned Man (1829), Victor Hugo (11802-1885) writes:

    From a distance the building looks quite stately. It appears on the brow of a hill on the horizon, and from a way off retains some of its former grandeur, the semblance of a royal château. But the closer you get the more dilapidated the palace turns out to be. The rotting gables are painful to behold. I don’t know what, but something disgraceful and degenerate sullies the regal façade; it’s as if the walls have leprosy.
    No more windows, no more window panes; just solid criss-crossed iron bars to which here and there the gaunt face of a convict or a lunatic is pressed.
    Here you see life in the raw.
    (Chapter IV)


    I started reading the book after @annaky told me she was assigned that text for a literature evaluation. She wanted to discuss her impressions with someone else.

    I could not help stopping at this passage from chapter IV. That's exactly how I felt when I got to Caracas. From a distance this is an imposing city. Its emblematic buildings and monuments speak of the grandeur it once had. As I started walking its streets a cruder reality emerged.

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    The sheer contrast between the majesty of the institutions shielded behind iron and concrete curtains and the stench of the lowliness surrounding them slap you in the face.

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    Sometimes the degradation comes from neglet or time's inescapable gripe; other times, it comes from the unspeskable crueltied perpetrated in it's halls.

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    Of the joyful crowds cheering the matadores on a bullfight afternoon or the busy crowds boarding their smoky buses home, only the facade remains. Never mind the stench of urine all around; no one will see that in a droned video promo.

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    At least we can walk through the relatively new working class apartment complexes without the fear of being assaulted. These unassuming buildings were erected around the elitist skyscrapers to give a sense of social equality.

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    Eventually, the decay that characterizes the modest neighborhoods, whose dwellers can't afford repairs or improvements, metastasized to the upper-middle class palaces.

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    The shadow of poverty and dirtiness reached the former glorious walls and shrank them.

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    The populist promises of welfare for all made it imposible for these places to retain their beauty.

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    The scars can be hidden behind postcards and IG robes, but like leprosy, they become apparent as you get closer.

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    Hot, dimmed, emptiness in a brutalist aesthetics that ironically would define its future population.

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    Relics of the past looking scared before the prospects of a monochromatic future.

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    Unseen art that resembles the ruins they would eventually become; a never-ending work in progress.

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    The further we go, the more claustrophobic it becomes.

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    Narrow bridges that lead nowhere

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    Occasionally illuminated by human warmth.

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    But condemned to oblivion. Not Even the solid bars of concrete can escape this incarceration.

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    We are all prisoners of a freedom facade; a sort of resignation that pretty much resembles a death sentence. However, stating what is not at plain sight makes us sound like lunatics. That explains why the USA will deport hundreds of thousands of Venezuelans. After all, from a distance, everything looks so pretty down here.

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    Thanks for stopping by

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