The dead centre of Samarkand

From my guide book. Samarkand’s most moving and beloved site is this stunning avenue of mausoleums, which contains some of the richest tile work in the Muslim world.

Sorry, it had a virtual re-build in 2005 and yes stunning to look at but lets cut the poetic licence puhleeease.

Don't let my realism and cynical views stop you from visiting. It is what it is. Visually pretty stunning.

From early 20th century all the vintage snaps used.....source

The Tomb of the Living King

Known as the Avenue of Mausoleums, the complex is said to house the grave of Qutham ibn Abbas, Mohammed's cousin, who travelled to this part of the world in the 7th century on a conquest of peace and love to spread islam to the masses, killing and controlling the population as he went.

The complex was constructed over his tomb. Ibn Abbas was reportedly beheaded nearby during the conquests..... carrying his head in is hands he descended into a well, where he resides eternally as a “Living King.”

FFS, don't get me started.

Yes stunning restoration work, which continues in places even to this day.

It is a collaboration of styles and architectures, as construction which started in the 11th century continued up until the 19th, the mausoleums are where many of the rulers, families, and close friends were interred.

Sorry, but don't ask me who or when; for when the guide started prattling on with totally irrelevant in depth information (I am not studying for a doctorate in ancient islamic history ffs) I switched off and went wandering. I have a guide book for reference, I ask questions if I need to know anything further.

Has anyone else experienced over zealous, anal retentive guides? I have found them to be most common throughout the former Soviet Union and the Indian sub-continent.

Shodi Mulk Oko Mausoleum dates back to the 14th century and is said to be the best mausoleum to see.

The internal restoration work was even more amazing than the external cladding

Oh Dear! I later found out that the guide had told the group, "not to leave" the complex........... Ho hum. I doubt if I would have listened anyways.

The complex of mausoleums is surrounded by Samarkand's biggest muslim graveyard and like a moth to as flame I was drawn without resistance, well apart from climbing over a low set of gates.

What a wonderful place to be, so many faces staring back at me, the old the young, death is the great leveller

I love this one in particular, a wonderful sculpted image of the resident

What I did notice that unlike other graveyards I have visited the muslim head stones are all facing the same way.

All things lead to Mecca, wherever possible the grave should be perpendicular to Mecca, with the body positioned so their right side faces the Islamic holy city. Even in death there is control.

Mr. G is a very naughty boy. He awaits his fatwa.